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Ifyou'vebeenshellingoutfordesignerclothinginthehopesthatitwillbemoredurablethancheaperoptions, youmightwanttoreconsider.
如果你花大把钱买名牌衣服,期望它们比平价衣服更耐穿,你可能需要重新考虑一下了。
AnewstudyfromTheUniversityofLeedssuggeststhatlow-costclothingmightactuallyoutlastpricierpieces.
利兹大学的一项新研究指出,廉价的衣服事实上可能比昂贵的衣服更耐穿。
ThestudywasledbyDr. MarkSumner, alecturerinfashionandsustainability. UsingsamplesofT-shirtsandjeansfromavarietyofbrandsandpricepoints, researchersmeasuredfactorssuchasseamstrength, colorfastness, andhowlongittookforthefabricofeachpiecetodevelopripsortears.
带头开展这项研究的马克·萨姆纳博士是时尚和可持续性专业的讲师。研究人员采用了多个品牌和价位的T恤和牛仔裤作为样本,衡量了接缝强力、色牢度等因素,以及面料多长时间会发生撕裂。
Despitethepopularnotionthatdesignerclothesaremoresturdilyconstructedthanoff-the-rackitems, thestudyfoundthatfast-fashionshirtsandjeansusuallyout-performedtheirluxurycounterparts.
尽管大众普遍认为,名牌衣服比平价衣服制作得更结实,但是研究发现,快时尚品牌的T恤和牛仔裤通常都比名牌衣服更耐穿。
"Someofthegarmentsperformedverywellacrossawiderangeoftests -- moreoftenthannot, thebestproductswere'fast-fashion'products," Dr. SumnertoldTheTelegraph.
萨姆纳博士告诉《每日电讯报》说:“其中一些衣服在大范围测试中表现很出色--这些衣服多半是快时尚产品。”
"Jeansfromonefashionbrandlastedtwiceaslongasadesignerlabeljeans, butcostone-tenthofthepriceofthedesignerjeans," hesaid.
萨姆纳说:“快时尚品牌牛仔裤的寿命是名牌牛仔裤的两倍,但是价格却只有名牌牛仔裤的十分之一。”
AccordingtoDr. Sumner'sinterviewwithTheTelegraph, designerlabelT-shirtswere "theworstperforming" inallofthetests. Surprisingly, T-shirtsfromanonlinefast-fashionbrandheldupthebest.
萨姆纳在接受《每日电讯报》的采访时说,名牌T恤在所有测试中的“表现是最差的”。令人惊讶的是,质量最好的T恤来自一家线上快时尚品牌。
Ofcourse, priceisn'ttheonlythingtoconsiderwhenshoppingfornewthreads. Thefashionindustryisahugesourceofenvironmentalpollution, withlow-costclothingcontributingheavilytolandfillwasteandcarbongasemissions.
当然,在购置新衣服时,价格并不是唯一要考虑的因素。时装行业是造成环境污染的一大源头,低成本服装严重加剧了垃圾填埋和二氧化碳排放。
AccordingtotheEPAOfficeofSolidWaste, Americansthrowawaymorethan 68 poundsofclothingandtextilesperpersonperyear. Withtrendsappearingandvanishingintheblinkofaneye, theaveragenumberoftimesagarmentiswornbeforeitisdisposedofhasdecreased 36% overthepast 15 years, accordingtoa 2017 report.
根据美国环保局固体废物办公室的数据,美国人每人每年扔掉超68磅的衣服和纺织品。服装潮流瞬息万变,根据2017年的报告,一件衣服在被丢弃前的平均穿着次数在过去15年间下降了36%。
Althoughsomeclothingitemsareestimatedtobetrashedafterjustsevenwears, lessthan 1% ofclothingisrecycledtocreatenewclothing. Plus, fast-fashioncancomewithethicalconcernsdependingonthecompany.
尽管有些衣服只穿了7次就被丢弃,但被回收用来制作新衣服的却不到1%。此外,快时尚产业的一些公司还伴随着道德争议。
Butit'snotjustfast-fashionbrandsthatareguiltyofwastefulpractices. Earlierthisyear, high-enddesignlabelBurberryacknowledgedburningalmost $40 millionofunsoldclothes, accessories, andperfume. AccordingtotheBBC, thecompanyoptedtodestroytheitemsratherthansellthemmorecheaplyinordertoprotectthebrand'svalue.
不过,造成浪费的不只有快时尚品牌。今年早些时候,高端时尚品牌巴宝莉承认将未售出的价值近4000万美元的衣服、饰品和香水烧毁。据英国广播公司报道,该公司选择烧毁货物而不是降价出售是为了保护品牌价值。
Allinall, there'salottoconsiderwhenpurchasingnewclothing. But, keepingthosebargainjeansinyourwardroberotationcouldbegoodforyourbudgetandtheenvironment -- andchancesaretheycanlastjustaslongasthedesignerpairyou'vebeeneyeing.
总而言之,在买新衣服之前要考虑的东西很多。但是,继续穿你的廉价牛仔裤对你的财政状况和环境都有好处,而且,它们很可能和你看中的那条名牌牛仔裤一样耐穿。